blog | 11.02.2019
Tom Ford sidelined his characteristically OTT approach to design this season to present a more refined and understated Autumn Winter 2019 collection.
Delicate draping and sleek silhouettes were embossed with heavy velvet work and even heavier eyeshadow. A faded feminine palette of pale blue, grey, pink and plum are contrasted with richer tones of brown, burgundy and black. This collection is unpretentious and polite, classic and charming.
This “less-is-more” approach, Ford says, is his way of exploring the very reason why he got into fashion – to make people feel beautiful. A simple concept that he says the fashion industry has long forgotten, spun into creative chaos and over compensating for the perceived “negative climate” of modern times.
“I always begin each collection as a reaction to the previous season, and last season I returned to what I feel that I do best and that is to make clothes that are chic, desirable, modern and wearable,” he says.
“While last season was decidedly feminine, this season is more about tailoring and a certain boyishness,” Ford says, “In terms of mood there is a languid sensuality and romance to this collection but also a certain peacock quality to the cut and colours of the pants, the sharpness of the tailoring.”
Borrowing a myriad of era-making styles, ranging from the 1920s Great Gatsby era with satin dresses, chiffon and sequins, to 1970s fake fur fedoras and two-piece velvet suits. Ford’s collection is a realisation of my wildest childhood dreams, and then some.
After great difficulty, I’ve managed to settle on my three favourite womenswear looks; Mariacarla Boscono’s bold purple and pink set, Joan Small's elegant black on black ensemble and Anok Yai’s closing look, a silver sequined dress that gracefully draped her body and definitely stole the show.
As for the men, they mean business. Wide rimmed glasses, Peaky Blinders cashmere caps and oversized puffer jackets were all key themes. As was slim fit tailoring and leather suits.
The Autumn Winter men’s looks were seasonally dark and mysterious, slightly more brooding than women’s, making the two complimentary in their differences.
Suiting was a clear stand out for the menswear collection, with best dressed going to Gena Malinin’s rouge velvet suit, Finnlay Davis' gold flaked suit and Alec Pollentier’s leather look.
Sitting front row was the queen of fashion herself, Anna Wintour, alongside Baz Luhrmann and Deborra-Lee Furness. Joining them were a long list of celebrities, socialites and influencers all dressed in Tom Ford, including Karlie Kloss, Rich the Kid, Danai Gurira, Odell Beckham Jr, Patrick Schwarzenegger and Poppy Delevingne. The Italian design duo behind brand Attico, Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, were also in attendance, wearing oversized Tom Ford puffer jackets.
Needless to say, the show was an overarching success for the American designer, and an exciting insight into the new direction his work is taking for 2019.
view the full bts slideshow below.