blog | 21.01.2014
Saint Laurent Paris and Lanvin
As Paris Fashion Week draws to a close the focus of the shows shifts to the Parisian labels that have given the city its unparalleled history. The present day direction of the cities’ mainstays give the tail end of the week an effusive momentum typifying the modern era of street wear adorning Paris’ streets.
Saint Laurent Paris
Hedi Slimane’s audacious vision of a brand re-invented with an unapologetic grungy intent continues to shape the current legacy of an industry. AW14 presents a civilised collision of garage band rock’n roll and Teddy boy ethos with a perfectly luminous gloss. Long coats and biker jackets of ethereal fabrics embellished with vibrant prints and detailing anchored a show lit to reflect the vitality of the moment.
On the floor, for now, in the shadow of Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington the young blood of fashion sat, enthralled by the vintage inspirations and uncut ethos of the mild mannered mastermind who captures the spirit of the moment.
Lanvin’s signature mastery of texture and shape infused the Autumn Winter show with the effortless sophistication customary at the famous Maison. Clean silhouettes contrasted with eighties-era pinks, graphics and zigzags on ties and shirting gave the collection a clashing, eye-catching vitality.
Easy to wear suiting and casual wear embellished with smart detailing in collar tips and tie pins paired with bright, chunky footwear allowed the eighties infusions to infiltrate looks with deft touches.
Long coats, a key focus of the season, were the defining piece of the show. Worked and reworked throughout the collection by the hands of Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver, the long coat by Lanvin is sumptuous, luxurious and essential.