Song for the Mute

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blog | 28.08.2015

Song for the Mute Q and A


28 August 2015
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FOLLOWING THE MONUMENTAL SUCCESS OF THEIR MENSWEAR LINE, MELVIN TANAYA AND LYNA TY, THE DESIGN DUO BEHIND THE SCULPTURAL, POETIC COLLECTIONS OF SONG FOR THE MUTE RETURN TO HARROLDS WITH A NEW SEASON AND BRAND NEW CHALLENGE.

AS THEIR AUTUMN WINTER 15 COLLECTION, UN(E), THE FIRST TO FEATURE A WOMENSWEAR LINE, LAUNCHES INTO STORES FOR AUTUMN WINTER 2015 WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE SYDNEY-BASED DESIGNERS TO DISCUSS THE EVOLUTION OF THE BRAND, CREATING BESPOKE FABRICS AND THE FEMALE IDENTITY OF SONG FOR THE MUTE.


AFTER SUCH OVERWHELMING SUCCESS WITH YOUR MENSWEAR LINE WHAT WAS THE MOTIVATION TO LAUNCH WOMENSWEAR?

LYNA WAS ORIGINALLY A WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER, SPECIALIZING IN COSTUME DESIGN AND COUTURE SO THERE HAS ALWAYS BEEN A DESIRE TO CREATE A WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION… WE REALLY WANTED TO FOCUS ON ENSURING OUR MENSWEAR WAS STRONG FIRST BEFORE STARTING A WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION. NOW, AFTER NUMEROUS COLLECTIONS THE “TIMING” FEELS RIGHT.

HOW, IF AT ALL, DO THE INSPIRATIONS AND INFLUENCES FOR YOUR WOMEN’S AND MEN’S LINES DIFFER?

THE WOMEN’S COLLECTION INCORPORATED THE IDEA OF “WHAT WOULD THE FEMALE COUNTER-PART OF OUR MENSWEAR CUSTOMER WEAR?” AND WE ALSO WANTED TO CREATE A WOMEN’S COLLECTION THAT HAD IT’S OWN IDENTITY AND NOT A DIRECT REFLECTION OF MEN’S SILHOUETTES INTO WOMENS.

IS THERE AN UNDERLYING CONCEPT BEHIND UN(E) AND IF SO HOW DID IT COME ABOUT?

TAKEN FROM A COMBINATION OF THE FRENCH MASCULINE AND FEMININE FOR ‘ONE’, THE NAME REFLECTS AN IMPORTANT MILESTONE IN SONG FOR THE MUTE HISTORY – THE PRESENTATION OF OUR DEBUT WOMENSWEAR CAPSULE COLLECTION. ‘UN(E)’ NOT ONLY SIGNIFIES THAT MILESTONE, BUT MARKS A NEW CHAPTER IN THE BRAND’S ONGOING DEVELOPMENT, A CHAPTER THAT FEATURES A MORE REFINED, SOPHISTICATED SILHOUETTE WHILE MAINTAINING SIGNATURE SONG FOR THE MUTE DETAILING AND CHARACTERISTICALLY BOLD FABRIC CHOICES.

LYNA, HOW MUCH OF YOUR PERSONAL STYLE CAN BE FOUND IN THE WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION?

THIS FIRST CAPSULE COLLECTION – ALL THE PIECES IN IT ARE SOMETHING I WOULD WEAR EVERY DAY. THAT ONE COAT, THAT ONE BLAZER, THAT ONE VEST, THAT ONE PANT, THAT ONE SKIRT, AND THE 2 DIFFERENT CUTS OF SHIRTING WOULD FILL THE VOID IN MY WARDROBE.

THE MATERIALS YOU WORK WITH PLAY SUCH AN IMPORTANT PART IN YOUR COLLECTIONS, CAN YOU PROVIDE SOME DETAILS ON THE SELECTION OF FABRIC FOR THE WOMENSWEAR LINE?

AT THE CENTER OF THIS SEASON’S FABRIC STORY IS A LITTLE KNOWN AND EVEN LESSER PRACTICED TECHNIQUE OF NEEDLE PUNCHING. WORKING WITH ONE OF ONLY TWO MILLS IN THE WORLD CAPABLE OF UTILIZING SUCH A TECHNIQUE, THE RESULT OF THIS 18 MONTH PROCESS ARE TWO FABRICS, TOTALLY BESPOKE TO SONG FOR THE MUTE. THE PROCESS ITSELF REQUIRES STRIPS OF RAW SILK, COTTON OR WOOL TO BE HAND LAID, BEFORE BEING NEEDLE PUNCHED TOGETHER TO PRODUCE AN INCREDIBLY STRUCTURED AND LUXURIOUS FINAL PRODUCT. GARMENTS PRODUCED FROM THESE FABRICS FEATURE IN LIMITED NUMBERS ACROSS ONLY A SELECT NUMBER OF STYLES IN THE RANGE. THIS SEASON’S CORE FABRICS ARE A JAPANESE MILLED AND SUN DRIED WOOL GABARDINE AND COTTON/WOOL.

CAN YOU DESCRIBE THE WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION IN 4 WORDS?

EFFEMINATE, EMPOWERED, CONFIDENT AND GRACEFUL.

ASIDE FROM THE ADDITION OF WOMENSWEAR, HOW DO YOU THINK THE BRAND HAS EVOLVED SINCE 2008?

WE’VE HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO WORK ALONGSIDE AND ALSO COLLABORATE WITH OTHER DESIGNERS, ADDING ACCESSORIES SUCH AS SHOES, BELTS ETC TO NUMEROUS COLLECTIONS. THAT BEING SAID, WE’VE CULTIVATED FABRICS AND REALLY STRENGTHENED KEY LOOKS/ SILHOUETTES AND REALLY BUILT THE SFTM LOOK. BUT WITH EVERY COLLECTION WE’RE STILL WANTING TO PUSH THE BOUNDARIES AND OFFER SOMETHING DIFFERENT TO THE SFTM AUDIENCE.

SONG FOR THE MUTE HAS ATTRACTED SOME HIGH-PROFILE FANS FROM AROUND THE WORLD OF MUSIC AND THE ARTS, IS THERE ANYONE IF PARTICULAR WHO REPRESENTS THE CORE VALUES OF THE BRAND, IN THE WAY THEY DRESS OR IN THEIR PERSONA?

WE’VE BEEN REALLY BLESSED THAT OUR PIECES HAVE BEEN RECOGNIZED AND WELL RECEIVED BY HIGH PROFILE PERSONALITIES BUT IF WE HAD TO CHOOSE ONE PERSON, IT WOULD BE NICK WOOSTER. HIS ATTENTION TO DETAILS IS SECOND TO NONE AND HE REALLY UNDERSTANDS THE BRAND AND OUR MESSAGE.